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Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

As for the overhead lighting: You can place the light slightly to the back of the specimen- not directly over it. Then fill in with a small reflector card covered wiht aluminum foil. You will still be able to bring the camera in directly over the subject. You will get good surface texture and detail.

3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

I'm looking to take a picture of a wet specimen - basically a biological sample in a bath of diluted formaldehyde and water lighted with a Godox R200 ringlight.

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I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

1.  Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich  2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till  the blackout.  Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

Yeah it isnt, it works as intended when looking at my monitor, albeit with a blue tint as well unlike my sun glasses, which is rather disappointing since this was a $186 filter:

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

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Yes it is properly oriented. Even with two sheets of polarization film on top of one another, rotated 90 degrees to one another, looking at the modeling lamp through the two layers of film with my naked eye shows it to be blue similar to my first picture rather than blacked out. Also putting the film in front of the monitor still shows a blue tint is leaking through

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So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

I was wondering if someone could help me understand what is going on with my attempts at cross polarization. I wanted to take some pictures with cross polarized light to remove specular reflections, and it is kind of working, but not exactly as expected. Instead of removing the reflections entirely, it seems to be doing it for only part of the spectrum, leaving the blue reflections behind.

I have used Rosco film with no color shift issues. My main polarizing screens for large bigger lighs were made by Bencher (no longer in business) and they are 25  years old- also no issues with strange color shifts.

5. You may end up with some of the reflections remaining which is ok if they are well-placed and provide modeling and special highlight in the right places.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

The diffuser will integrate the light projection angles and, combined with having a little distance between the flash head and the polarizing gel, may make the combination work more like a virtual point source and yield better polarization results.In your example, you are also working with various angles of reflection from the glass, making the math much more complicated as well.

I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

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I also tried taking a picture of reflections in a glass. I rotated the CPL until it didn't seem to be effecting the image and got reflections as expected:

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

Yes it is properly oriented. Even with two sheets of polarization film on top of one another, rotated 90 degrees to one another, looking at the modeling lamp through the two layers of film with my naked eye shows it to be blue similar to my first picture rather than blacked out. Also putting the film in front of the monitor still shows a blue tint is leaking through

Crosspolarizedlightmicroscopy

Do you notice the connection between the focal length and the bending of the light ray? As the focal length decreases, the amount the light bends increases. Therefore, we can conclude that the power of a lens is inversely proportional to the focal length of the lens. A short focal length basically contributes to high optical power.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture. Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

1. Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich 2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till the blackout. Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

Cross polarizationphotography

I'm looking to take a picture of a wet specimen - basically a biological sample in a bath of diluted formaldehyde and water lighted with a Godox R200 ringlight.

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

If OP has the time and flexibility, then I agree: an almost-on-axis softbox could be the way to go (means a very big sheet of polarising gel though). I've never heard of someone cutting a polarising gel and mounting it on a ring flash, if he can solve his spectral problem, it should be pretty useful.

Considering that this issue happens even when looking at the light straight on, I doubt the facets in the glass are causing this problem.

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

4. Polariazg filtration does not work well on metallic reflections.  I have experienced cases where they discolor metallic reflections rather than negating them.

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out.  When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Cross polarizationantenna

And when I rotated the CPL until it seemed to have a maximum effect, the reflects were minimized but what remained was blue again:

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

I also tried taking a picture of reflections in a glass. I rotated the CPL until it didn't seem to be effecting the image and got reflections as expected:

I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

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Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

Cross polarizationfilter

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

Do you have experience with Rosco film specifically? Did I just get a defective batch? Is it Rosco film just defective in general? Is there perhaps another supplier which would work better such as B + W? Rosco was the only supplier on Adorama which offered it in large pieces. The B + W at 200x200mm might just barely fit.

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I ordered some Rosco linear polarization film and cut out a piece. I put the round head on my Godox AD200 Pro, sandwiched some polarization film in front of it, and put a Sigma WR CPL on my lens. After rotating it to the correct angle with the modeling light on, I took a picture with the flash firing and the film was lit up blue:

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2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

Cross polarizationphotogrammetry

Yeah it isnt, it works as intended when looking at my monitor, albeit with a blue tint as well unlike my sun glasses, which is rather disappointing since this was a $186 filter:

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3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

As for the overhead lighting:  You can place the light slightly to the back of the specimen- not directly over it.  Then fill in with a small reflector card covered wiht aluminum foil.  You will still be able to bring the camera in directly over the subject. You will get good surface texture and detail.

Simply put, the power of a lens in Ray Optics is its ability to bend light. The greater the power of a lens, the greater its ability to refract light that passes through it. For a convex lens, the converging ability is defined by power and in a concave lens, the diverging ability.

And when I rotated the CPL until it seemed to have a maximum effect, the reflects were minimized but what remained was blue again:

Crosspolarizedlightgeology

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

Considering that this issue happens even when looking at the light straight on, I doubt the facets in the glass are causing this problem.

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Off the top of my head, what might help is to put some diffusion o the head and then mount a larger sheet of polarizer at a small distance from the flash .

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

When I was in vet school (a million years ago, it seems!) I was friends with the veterinary college photographer. His job was to photograph just about everything at the school, including close details of surgeries and dissections. For those, he always used a ring flash, specifically to get the shadowless light we know it gives; it was absolutely necessary, as a shadow could be confused for a structure, or contour, that wasn't actually there (of course, a ring-flash was also much more portable than a softbox, and easier to keep sterile). He may have used a CPL (I wasn't au fait with all the nuances of photography back then), but I'm pretty sure he didn't use polarising gels on his lights, or ring-flash. Must've just accepted specular reflections as they came.

I ordered some Rosco linear polarization film and cut out a piece. I put the round head on my Godox AD200 Pro, sandwiched some polarization film in front of it, and put a Sigma WR CPL on my lens. After rotating it to the correct angle with the modeling light on, I took a picture with the flash firing and the film was lit up blue:

2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

1. Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich 2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till the blackout. Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

The power of a Lens is one of the most interesting concepts in ray optics. The detailed concept of this topic is given in the below article so that learners can understand this chapter more effectively.

I was wondering if someone could help me understand what is going on with my attempts at cross polarization. I wanted to take some pictures with cross polarized light to remove specular reflections, and it is kind of working, but not exactly as expected. Instead of removing the reflections entirely, it seems to be doing it for only part of the spectrum, leaving the blue reflections behind.

So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

To find the power of a lens in Ray Optics, the following formula can be used. If the focal length is given in metres (m), the power of the lens is measured in Diopters (D), as in the unit of power of the lens is diopter. Another thing you should keep in mind is that for a converging lens the optical power is positive and for a diverging lens, it is negative. For example, if the focal length of a lens is 20 cm, converting this to metres, we get 0.2 m. To find the power of this lens, take the reciprocal of 0.2, and we get 5. Therefore, the power of this particular lens is 5 D. If you’ve previously read about the lens maker’s formula, you would’ve realised that what we are calculating there is actually the power of the lens. This means that you can calculate the power of a lens using radii of curvature of two surfaces and the refractive index of the lens material. An important application of using the power of lenses is in ‘Optometry”. Optometrists prescribe corrective lenses (either convex or concave lens) based on depreciating vision. Your eye is basically a lens and you may experience problems with having a clear vision sometimes. This can be rectified by wearing corrective lenses with the appropriate power.

Do you have experience with Rosco film specifically? Did I just get a defective batch? Is it Rosco film just defective in general? Is there perhaps another supplier which would work better such as B + W? Rosco was the only supplier on Adorama which offered it in large pieces. The B + W at 200x200mm might just barely fit.